Wood Floor Restoration Company in London

With a finely crafted real wood floor as the perfect foundation for any style of decor, it is no wonder wood flooring continues to be a firm favorite with UK homeowners.  As with any centerpiece though, the floor has to be in tip-top condition otherwise the aesthetic of the whole room will be affected.

Although there are various methods to keep a floor looking great there will come a time when a complete wood floor restoration will be required. Fortunately, this only happens every decade or so and a well-maintained wood floor with light traffic can easily last 15 years or more before refinishing is necessary.

How to DIY

Once you have decided that floor restoration is the way forward you can take the opportunity to change the colour of the wood or the type of finishing. There are many beautiful and easy-to-use finishing products out there to give you the widest possible choice.

However before you get anywhere near that stage first comes the labour intensive part! The whole floor will have to be sanded back to remove all traces of the previous veneer. If the floor has lain untouched for some time it is likely that you will find missing or loose boards and uneven gaps between the planks. These problems should be remedied at this stage before you even think about sanding.

If the floor is old and you are struggling to find a replacement match you could try contacting a local wood floor company who can source the closest match for you.

A basic toolkit is usually enough to get the job done, but if you are doing the sanding yourself you will probably need to rent a large drum sander which is walked along the boards sanding as it goes. If you have never used such a beast before then take advice from the hire outlet before taking the machine away. The main pitfall that you should be aware of is to never leave the machine running on idle as it will gouge the boards.

Depending upon the state of the floor you will need to do two or maybe three sanding in order to get the floor to the smooth, even and blemish-free result you need before you can progress on to the refinishing stage. This being the case; make sure and give yourself plenty of time (a week or more) during which the room can safely be out of commission. Many a sanding has been botched by working too quickly or by over-sanding and ruining the boards, so learn enough about the process before you start work, and take your time. More haste, less speed!

Refinishing

When the room has received its final sanding and you have cleared away all residual dust and dirt then you are ready to re-stain or otherwise refinishing the floor. You can choose from varnish, lacquer or oil-based finishing products in a matt or high gloss finish. If you opt for wood stain you can choose a natural color or a clear stain to enhance the natural whorls of the wood, or you can completely change the color and have your pine floor as rich as dark oak if you want to.

If you have sound enough DIY skills and are physically fit there is no reason why you cannot tackle wood floor restoration yourself. If however you are unable to spend long amounts of time on your knees or have limited carpentry skills then you can choose a completely free home floor assessment and quotation from your local wood flooring experts. Either way, give yourself the best chance of success before tacking the floor, as a botched job can be expensive to put right.

Wax Your Hard Woods Beautifully

One of the cheapest and most effective ways to protect hardwood flooring is by waxing. Water-based wax is non-toxic, has little or no odour and is not harmful to children or pets. You can wax an average size room by yourself even if you have never done so before.

The idea is of course to have the floor look as shiny as possible without actually being shiny enough to be slippery. In this regard then be sure to follow product guidelines to the letter and take additional precautions too such as using non-slip runners on rugs and mats.

Different types of wax

If the floor is bare (that is it has no veneer) then solid wax can be applied straight from the tub and worked energetically into the grain of the wood by hand. Time consuming as it is, this method works really well and is so worth doing if you want your hardwood floor sanding to stay beautiful. Solid wax comes in paste form and can also be used on real linoleum, cork (if unfinished) and, surprisingly enough, concrete.

The best way to apply this solid wax is via a piece of porous cloth (cheesecloth is ideal). You simply place a chunk of wax inside the cloth and wrap it up. Secure the bundle tightly and apply to the floor. You can work on your knees applying the wax through the cloth (never directly on to) the floor, but you can also tie the bundle securely onto a brush shaft to give your knees a rest.

You should avoid using solid wax on any hardwood floor that has a topcoat applied and never use it on artificial flooring such as vinyl or flooring that has been finished with a urethane-based product.

If you feel solid waxing is not for you then you can use liquid wax or oil. Like the solid wax, liquid wax too should only be applied to unfinished hardwoods, real lino and unfinished cork flooring. The liquid is easier to apply but unfortunately the sheen will not last as long as with solid wax.

The other alternative is to use a water-based silicone product. This type of finishing can be used pretty much anywhere except on wood which has not been sealed, cork or linoleum products. This product can be applied using a floor polisher. Avoid allowing the liquid to seep into the floor boards and through the cracks. To avoid this happening apply only sparingly and give the floor several coatings. Ensure each coat is completely dry before applying the next. Applying this product on a floor that is not dry will result in a messy, streaky effort, which you will then have to re-do. Patience is key here. Water-based silicone is in fact the only product which can be safely applied to floors with a urethane finishing.

Whichever product you use, take care to wear appropriate protective overalls and always wear gloves. If you should spill any product on the skin wash off immediately. Work carefully and slowly to avoid splashing furniture, skirting and walls. This product will stain paint and wallpaper.

To wax or not to wax

With so many new and wood floor renovation finishing products out there it is not surprisingly that old-fashioned wax has lost some of its appeal yet it is the most economical method of refreshing any type of hardwood floor.

If you are willing to put in the time and elbow grease then your floor will reward you by looking beautiful, sparking and bright. However if you are unable to commit to working for long spells on your knees then you may consider getting a little specialist help. You will be able to obtain a no fee quotation from your local floor sanding company who will assess your floor and tell you whether waxing is right for you.

Lime-Washing Real Wood Flooring

Lime-washing is an old-fashioned wood floor treatment that has withstood the test of time and is still popular with homeowners today when they want to give their floor a facelift. However, because the lime-washing technique is a temporary solution it should not be used in place of restoration if the floor has been untreated for more than a decade. In such cases a complete rejuvenation should be undertaken, which includes the repair/replace damaged boards, full sanding and refinishing. In addition not every type of real Wood Floor Sanding is suitable for this type of treatment so if you are in doubt play safe and get an expert opinion before carrying out any lime-washing.

The lime-wash solution works by coating and protecting the floor, but years of cleaning gradually removes the chalk-like lime and natural wax on the floor making the boards extra slippery and in some cases quite hazardous.

An alternative is to use what is known as a pickling stain, which contains no lime and offers the blanched, almost see-through veneer that is very popular with on-trend homeowners. Whether you choose to use lime or pickling stain you should begin with a freshly sanded floor, as old varnish and other sealants will stop the colour from being absorbed into the wood resulting in a patchy and amateurish finish.

The process

You can mix the lime-wash yourself or have it mixed for you by an in-store painting mix machine. Do not apply to an unprepared floor and always vacuum thoroughly after sanding. Apply a little at a time using a high-quality brush (so the bristles won’t drop out) or a lint-free cloth. Dip the end of the brush or cloth into the mix and apply directly on to the planks. Always move along with the grain never against and do not ever apply across the planking.

DIY’ers often prefer to lime-wash planks by row. To avoid creating a line between strokes try to refine the method of lifting the brush just a little as you come to the end of the stroke so that it blends in with the next application.

Always wipe the wash with a separate cloth before it dries in, as before moving only in the direction of the natural wood grain. In this way you can cover the entire floor applying lime-wash and removing it until the whole floor has been treated. Depending upon the size of the floor and whether you are working alone or have some help, this may be a painstaking process but not one that should be rushed as any flaws not attended to at this time will be greatly magnified when the end result is viewed. Don’t be tempted to cut corners. If you feel this may be too much for you to tackle then you can obtain a free quotation from a Floor Sanding specialist company.

Moving forward

When you have completed the floor it will require several hours to dry completely. If possible try to give it at least four hours or better still let it dry overnight. A good rule of thumb is that any water-based solution will need a minimum of three hours to dry whereas an oil-based mix should be left overnight. Do not carry on if the mix is completely dry.

To seal the floor you should use a urethane sealant, which you can get from a DIY shop. Follow the manufacturer guidelines and apply straight from the tin using a clean brush, paint pad or floor mop. Once again use long strokes moving along the grain; short strokes will result in air bubbles marring the finish. Drying time is as above.

You can apply several coats of sealant if you wish but always allow the previous coat to completely dry out first.

A little TLC to finish

Keep your lime-wash floor looking gorgeous for a long time to come with regular vacuuming and an occasional clean with a lightly moistened mop.